Andy and Brian’s Excellent Baja Adventure, Part 1

Observations in Motion

(or Andy and Brian's Excellent Baja Adventure)

Soon after anchoring to light winds and flat water in Bahia Tortuga, we hailed Enrique1 on Channel 16 for a panga ride from Sauvage to the fishing village for the crew.  This allowed Skipper Jim to clean and reclaim rule of his domain from an unruly crew.

At the top of the pier we met Enrique2, asked him about refueling, and how two of the crew, Brian and me (OK, Brian asked Enrique2, since his Spanish is better than mine), might travel inland to the main road to travel South to Cabo for our reserved room and prepaid flights home in a few more days, since our race had ended early.

Took a few minutes to stroll through the sand to the dirt roads through shore-side dwellings, found the Mercado for boat beer, then went to the porch overlooking the bay and ordered their beer, with ours for the boat at our feet.  We waited.  They delivered chips and salsa.  We waited.  They delivered limes and salt, and gave us dinner options.  We waited.  They apologized for the wait, but said yesterday a large group had drunk all of their beer, but they had sent for more, which should be here soon.  'Soon' finally arrived, and so did our beer.  We were 'off grid', and off of Gringo schedules.

We went back to the pier to check in with another Enrique, to line up our travel options.  There was a van leaving at 0300 that night/morning, that could take us inland for tres horas to Vizcaino's bus station.  We could then bus South 5-6 hours to Cabo, or bus North for 12 hours or so to Tijuana and The Border.

After a dinner at Brian's quaint restaurant (Brian has been god-damned everywhere already), the pesca was great, and they even had beer that was already there.  The gringo timeframe was non-existent and not appropriate as cruisers Beller and Spille knew.  Plenty of time to enjoy, unwind, and thank Jim for dinner!

We stopped back by the pier, and think we finalized our travel van with Enrique3, who confirmed with Enrique2, and probably Enrique4.  E3 drove the panga back to Sauvage for a short night.  No longer wanting beer, we took a vew crew nips of rum (RIP Chuck) and enjoyed the clarity of the stars and the cool night breeze.  I forgave Spille for putting the squid off the deck into my coffee mug, and wondered when Spille would wind the spicy dill pickle I put into his water bottle, then prepped my backpack for a quick exit, and set my alarm for 0220.

As promised, E2 arrived at 0-dark-30, and Brian and I jumped ship for the panga, then were escorted by E2 up the dirt road to a van.  We gathered at the van, thanked E2, then drove to some residences to gather more early morning travelers, then headed Northeast in the dirt road rattled van at max speed, being the only car lights on a straight road through the still dark desert to our next point of decision, North or South.  Brian and I both enjoyed how the really big bumps made the van's dome lights go on as the wires connected.

So we arrived at the Viscaino bus terminal at 0600, and with a brightening sky.  The 0700 bus went North; decision made.  Bought tickets, bought coffee and empanada cookies, visited a spotless restroom (really! Way cleaner than any Denny's) and departed on the 0700 bus at 0800 or so, destination Tijuana in 12 hours then a short walk across the border.  It stays open 24 hours; we checked.